Keeping Your Skincare Safe: The Role of Preservatives

When I first began making skincare, I was determined to avoid preservatives altogether. I didn’t truly understand their role in water-based products and assumed they were all harmful. My background in the beauty industry had taught me to be cautious; over the years I’d learned about the risks of certain ingredients like phthalates, parabens, and formaldehyde, which have been linked to potential cancer risks and endocrine disruption. But as I honed my craft and realized that not everything could be made without water, my perspective changed. I discovered that a high-quality, naturally derived, broad-spectrum preservative is not the enemy. It’s the key to creating safe, effective water-based skincare products that stay fresh and protects the people who use them.

Why Preservatives Are a Must in Skincare – and Why That’s a Good Thing

In the world of natural and handmade skincare, preservatives often get a bad reputation. They’re sometimes painted as unnecessary, “chemical,” or even harmful. But here’s the truth: preservatives aren’t the villains of skincare, they’re the protectors. Without them, your favorite lotion, cream, or serum could become a breeding ground for bacteria, mold, and yeast long before you finish the jar.

What Are Preservatives, Really?

A preservative is an ingredient that helps prevent the growth of harmful microorganisms in products that contain water or will be exposed to water during use. This includes lotions, creams, toners, scrubs, and non-soap cleansers. Any time water is present, there’s a risk of contamination. Preservatives act like the security guard at the door, making sure harmful microbes don’t move in and spoil the party. Even my Solid Conditioner Bar, which contains no water in its formula, can still be at risk for mold growth simply because it’s exposed to water every time you use it. 

The best preservatives offer broad-spectrum protection, meaning they guard skincare and cosmetic products against a wide range of microorganisms, including bacteria (both gram-positive and gram-negative), mold, and yeast. Gram-positive and gram-negative refer to two major classes of bacteria, each with different cell structures; a broad-spectrum preservative can effectively target both.

Think of it like an “all-in-one security system” for your skincare. Some preservatives are only effective against bacteria or only against mold/yeast, but a broad-spectrum preservative covers all the bases, reducing the need to combine multiple preservatives. If a preservative isn’t broad spectrum, I would need to use it in combination with others to make sure the products I make are fully protected. I keep things simple by using a single broad-spectrum preservative in all my water-based products (keep reading to find out which preservative I use). This keeps the skincare I create fresh, effective, and safe from all the nasties that could otherwise grow inside. 

Mixing a batch of body cream

 

Why Skincare Needs Preservatives

• Water + Time = Microbe Heaven
  Microorganisms thrive in moist environments. Without preservatives, even a freshly made cream can start to grow bacteria or mold within days or weeks. And that’s exactly what happened when I made my first test batch of Body Cream. I whipped up a tiny two-ounce batch and left the preservative out, thinking I’d save it since the cream was just for my use. Within days, that little jar smelled worse than spoiled milk! Even though I had no intention of leaving the preservative out of the final product, I learned a valuable lesson about the importance of preservatives in water-based products.

• Every Use Is an Opportunity for Contamination
  When you dip your fingers into a jar, use a spatula, or even just open a bottle, you introduce potential contaminants, whether you can see them or not. There was no visible mold or bacteria on the surface of my test cream, but my nose told me it was no longer fit for use and I promptly disposed of it. 

• They Protect Your Skin, Not Just the Product
  Using contaminated skincare isn’t just unpleasant, it can lead to skin irritation, rashes, infections, or worse. Preservatives keep products safe for you from the first use to the last. Now, all my test creams include a preservative, so I can test them properly, ensuring safety not just for myself, but for you as well.

Natural Doesn’t Mean Preservative-Free

There’s a common misconception that “natural” skincare should be preservative-free. In reality, even plant-based and botanical formulas need protection if they contain water. Thankfully, there are effective and skin-friendly preservatives, many derived from natural sources, that meet both safety and eco-conscious standards.  The preservative I use is Optiphen Plus, which is considered a naturally derived preservative. It’s favored in clean beauty because it avoids parabens, formaldehyde, and other harsher preservatives. 

 

Optiphen Plus is a combination of Phenoxyethanol, Caprylyl Glycol, and Sorbic Acid. Phenoxyethanol is a synthetic preservative, although it’s considered safe and widely accepted in cosmetic formulations. It’s derived originally from phenol, which can be sourced from natural sources, but the phenoxyethanol used in cosmetics is synthetically manufactured.  While I generally avoid synthetic ingredients, the safety and effectiveness of this preservative make it my top choice over all others.

Caprylyl Glycol is a naturally derived ingredient (from coconut or palm oil) and also acts as a skin-conditioning agent and preservative booster. Sorbic Acid is a natural organic acid found in some fruits (like berries), commonly used as a food and cosmetic preservative.

I use one percent of this preservative, the maximum allowed, in my water-based formulas to ensure full protection and prevent the product from spoiling. To put it in perspective, the amount of preservative in a two-ounce jar of cream or lotion is very minimal, approximately 0.02 oz.

When Preservatives Aren’t Needed

Not every skincare product needs a preservative. Oils, balms, and anhydrous (water-free) formulas don’t typically support microbial growth, though they still benefit from antioxidants like vitamin E to slow down rancidity. Some people believe vitamin E or even rosemary extract are natural preservatives, but in reality they do nothing more than prolong the shelf life of a product. None of my anhydrous products, including Whipped Tallow Balm , Wild Yam Cream, and Moisturizing Eye & Face Balm have a preservative, so if you're really adamant about avoiding preservatives, these products might be right for you.

A Safer, Longer-Lasting Skincare Experience

Preservatives aren’t about cutting corners or adding unnecessary chemicals, they’re about making sure the skincare you invest in stays fresh, safe, and effective until the very last drop. They're like a safety net for your skincare: you might not notice them every day, but they’re there to protect you when it matters most.

I hope you enjoyed this blog post about preservatives and their importance in water-based skincare products. If you have any questions or comments, please let me know below.

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